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is a place. Not like any place – it can be a home, if you want. It felt like home to me after my first visit, and when we all said goodye it was Henry who said “you’ll be back”, and I don’t remember if he was actually asking me if I would come back – or if he already knew.

El Corte is a magic place. When you are there, end even if there was noone around you, there would be so much to explore. To see. I have only been coming to El Corte for not even a year now, but it seems even though the place is not changing (much), I still discover new details. You feel the energy of the place, the love that was brought here and was tranformed into walls, and more.

But El Corte is much more than a place: it is the people. I would not say it’s a certain breed, but it feels like a subculture of the tango crowd, nevertheless. Many friendly, open faces – coming from Portugal, Moskow – from every corner of Europe, and from the farthest stretches. At Chained Salons I have seen people from the US coming just for this milonga! Then there’s the people sleeping in El Corte, after the music is gone, on the dance floor. And then there’s those who like to shower with friends, those who take foot baths, those who sing, others who just show up for the breakfast, and many who don’t want to leave anymore.

Tango at El Corte is great. I can’t compare to BsAs, as I have never been there – and I have heard there’s better dancing in Berlin. But what exactly makes up that “better” is up to you, I believe. Dancing at El Corte can be a different experience, when you experience “la ronda” with three lanes, but it can be chaotic as well. The place certainly is different in it’s geometry: the dance floor only has a small entrance, and almost no space for people to watch. During Chained salons you will experience different stages of dancing: from full to empty, from crazy to crowded. You will find both milongeuros as nuevoistas, and you will also find people who are respectful on the floor, and some who are not. You will find that it is like any other milonga, but also unlike any other. There are rules, there’s a map with the “lanes”, and Eric suggests people only enter the floor when there’s a between the songs, but there are no cortinas. Tandas, if you pay attention. There’s cabeceo, but “outside”, in the socializing area. You will find a lot – but what I have not seen yet is the extreme nuevo/openembrace dancer, and almost no non-tango music (a little spice is being played). And there are great DJs, and lovely hosts. Eric seems to remember everyone, and he will greet you with name in your mother tongue!

In the end, it is what you make of it. You can socialize, have fun and dance a bit. You can dance a lot. You can also be very frustrated and not dance much. Why, I don’t know and I cannot tell you any hints that might make a difference.

It can be overwhelming. When you are there the first time, you don’t know anyone, and everyone around seems to be returning to their long lost family. I would say this will change after you get to know the people…

I can only tell you small and tiny details. You have to try it yourself – and experience if it really is yours. If it can become yours. You would not be alone – there’s a term called “tango nomad” which, I believe, was coined by the El Corte crowd. But it really is like that – they are all spread and can be found in many places. And, of course, the one place: El Corte.

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8 Comments

  1. They should pay you for this wonderful report. I could see it and almost feel it. Thank you.
    You write so good. Either is good stories or sad stories :-)

  2. Of course, one of my dreams

  3. Beautiful post! I am an El Corte afficionada :-) – wonder if we ever met there? Where are you based?

    I have been reflecting a lot on similarities and differences between tango in El Corte and tango in BsAs. I think I prefer the overall experience in El Corte, for the genuine kindness.

  4. Lucky you! I won’t make it till September (in the best case). Enjoy! I wonder how rhymed tango must be: I guess, lots of turns :-)


One Trackback/Pingback

  1. By Argentine Tango in Germany « Expat Translator on 03 Oct 2011 at 11:00 pm

    [...] very popular tango event, called the Chained Salon, occurs once a month there at El Corte. Reading a description of El Corte on the 1 Step Tango blog certainly piques my interest. Not to mention that at all of these tango events I’m more [...]

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